FROM THE ALPS TO THE IONIAN

Albania, without a car.

From the Ionian to the Alps. Choose where to sleep, how far the bus goes and which stretch you will walk.

Trail along the cliffs above Gjipe beach and the Ionian Sea
Gjipe BeachAlbanian Riviera 40° 07′ N · 19° 40′ E

How to get there without a car

  1. TiranaDeparture
  2. DhërmiIntercity bus
  3. GjipeTrail to the cove

From Dhërmi, get to the start of the trail. The last stretch goes down on foot over stony ground.

Confirm before you set off

  • Where the bus stops in Dhërmi.
  • How to get from the stop to the start of the trail.
  • Where to return from and how.

Route sources

ROUTES WITHOUT A CAR

Choose your itinerary

Pick the number of days and check the transport before deciding where to sleep.

ROUTE NOTEBOOK

From Tirana to the Ionian

Five days, up to four bases and one connection worth settling before you book the second night.

Night 2 after visiting Berat

Berat → Gjirokastra depends on your date. Argjiro

Day 5 from Saranda

Choose how you want to end the trip.

  1. Day 1 Published connection

    From the airport to the centre

    TIA airport → Tirana

    Pick the city-centre bus
    The airport has two lines: one arrives behind the Opera, the other goes to the South–North Terminal. To sleep in the centre, look for the first.
    A first walk on foot
    From Skanderbeg Square, link the Pyramid and Blloku if your arrival time allows.
    Where to sleep

    Tirana

    Before you set off

    Save your arrival point in the centre and the address of the intercity terminal for tomorrow. They are different stops.

    Sources for this leg ·

    Read the guide · Tirana
  2. Day 2 · If your departure is confirmed Published connection

    Climb to the citadel

    Tirana → Berat → old town

    Leave from the intercity terminal
    Confirm the departure to Berat from Tirana's South–North Terminal. In Berat, the bus ends about 3 km north of the old town.
    Cover the last stretch
    The city bus links the terminal with the centre and has stops near Mangalem and the Gorica bridge. If you are short on time, ask about a taxi from the terminal.
    Where to sleep

    Berat, if the day 3 connection is confirmed.

    Before you set off

    Confirm the Berat departure to Gjirokastra with Argjiro before booking tonight.

    Read the guide · Berat
  3. Day 2 · Alternative via Tirana Published connection

    Visit Berat and return to Tirana

    Tirana ⇄ Berat

    Plan the way there and back
    Confirm both intercity journeys. In Berat, connect with the city bus near Mangalem or the Gorica bridge.
    Leave a margin to get back to the terminal
    If time is tight, walk Mangalem and Gorica along the lower part. Work out the trip back to the terminal before climbing up to Kala.
    Where to sleep

    Tirana

    Before you set off

    Check the last bus back to Tirana and the departure to Gjirokastra the next day.

    Read the guide · Berat
  4. Day 3 · If your departure is confirmed Confirm before booking

    From one historic town to another

    Berat → Gjirokastra

    Settle the connection before you travel
    Argjiro publishes Berat → Gjirokastra and also Tirana → Gjirokastra. Ask for confirmation of your date, departure point and seat before you pay for the night in Berat.
    From the lower town to the bazaar
    Argjiro's listing identifies Ura e lumit in Gjirokastra. Expect a climb up to the old town. If you have luggage, arrange the last stretch with your accommodation.
    Where to sleep

    Gjirokastra

    Before you set off

    If the Berat departure is not confirmed, use Tirana as your base on night 2 and set off from there on day 3. Check that departure for your date too.

    Read the guide · Gjirokastra
  5. Day 3 · Alternative via Tirana Confirm before booking

    Leave Tirana for Gjirokastra

    Tirana → Gjirokastra

    Confirm the intercity bus from Tirana
    Argjiro publishes this connection. Verify the departure, the seat and the boarding stop for your date.
    Climb up from the lower town
    Confirm the arrival point and arrange the climb to the old town with your accommodation if you have luggage.
    Where to sleep

    Gjirokastra

    Before you set off

    Save the arrival stop for the day 4 trip to Saranda.

    Read the guide · Gjirokastra
  6. Day 4 Published connection

    Head down to the Ionian Sea

    Gjirokastra to Saranda

    Go back to the boarding point
    Argjiro publishes the trip to Saranda. From the old town of Gjirokastra, leave time to come down with your luggage and confirm the exact stop.
    Get your bearings by the coast
    When you arrive in Saranda, find the city bus stop for Ksamil and Butrint. Keep the harbour walk for the afternoon.
    Where to sleep

    Saranda

    Before you set off

    If you return to Tirana on day 5, add Ksamil to this day only if you have already sorted the way back to Saranda. For an early flight on day 5, go back from Gjirokastra on day 4 and sleep in Tirana.

    Read the guide · Saranda
  7. Day 5 Published connection

    Choose a stop on the coast

    Saranda ⇄ Ksamil or Butrint

    Take the line to Butrint
    Saranda's tourist office publishes a line from the centre that passes through Ksamil and ends at Butrint. Confirm at the stop where to get off for your visit.
    One visit first, then the other
    Pick the coves of Ksamil or the archaeological site of Butrint. Combine them only if you can get back to Saranda with time to spare.
    Where to sleep

    Saranda. Keep day 6 for getting back to Tirana if you fly out of TIA.

    Before you set off

    Confirm the last return to Saranda. If you fly early from Tirana, book a night near the capital before the flight.

    Read the guide · Ksamil
  8. Return on day 5 Published connection

    Keep the day for the journey back

    Saranda → Tirana → TIA, if needed

    Sort out the intercity bus first
    Olgeno publishes the Saranda → Tirana connection and the boarding points. Confirm your departure, the arrival stop and the margin for any connection.
    The airport is a separate leg
    Check which link to TIA suits you from the stop where your bus arrives. Avoid an early flight on the same day you come back from the coast.
    Where to sleep

    Tirana if your flight is the next day.

    Before you set off

    If the flight leaves early on day 5, cut the coast short and sleep in Tirana on day 4. If you have all of day 5 to travel back, keep Ksamil as an option for day 4.

    Read the guide · Tirana
Schematic map of the stages · Natural Earth

Castles from Tirana

Keep a single base. Give one day to the capital and two to round trips.

  1. Day 1
    Tirana

    Start at Skanderbeg Square and walk on to the Pyramid and Blloku.

  2. Day 2
    Berat

    Climb to the citadel and cross the Osum to see Mangalem from Gorica.

  3. Day 3
    Kruja

    Explore the bazaar and the castle. Check the way back to Tirana before you go up.

The stages are indicative. Confirm the departure point and the last return with the operator.

Stone, coast and the way back

Add a trip to Kruja, keep two days on the coast and leave the last one for the journey back.

  1. Day 1
    Tirana

    Spend the day around Skanderbeg Square, the Pyramid and Blloku.

  2. Day 2
    Kruja

    Visit the bazaar and the castle grounds from Tirana.

  3. Day 3
    Berat

    Change base and leave time for the castle and the historic neighbourhoods.

  4. Day 4
    Gjirokastra

    Check the connection south. Explore the stone streets in the afternoon.

  5. Day 5
    Saranda

    Move on to Saranda. Stroll along the harbour, or book a boat if the guide's language suits you.

  6. Day 6
    Ksamil

    Spend the day at Ksamil and Butrint. Confirm the return to Saranda first.

  7. Day 7
    Tirana

    Head back to the capital with plenty of time for the airport.

The stages are indicative. Confirm the departure point and the last return with the operator.

Where do you start?

Pick what appeals to you most and find a base for the trip.

ATLAS OF ALBANIA

One country, many roads.

Select a destination on the map or in the list to see what to visit and how to get there.

Indicative map · Natural Earth

Frequently asked questions

Can you travel around Albania without a car?

Yes. Combine intercity buses between bases with walking stretches in the cities. For a valley, a spring or a boat pier, also confirm how you will cover the last stretch and get back.

How do I plan five days without a car?

Start in Tirana, visit Berat and carry on to Gjirokastra and Saranda. Sleep in Berat on the second night if your connection to Gjirokastra is confirmed. If not, go back to Tirana and set off from there. Give day 5 to Ksamil or Butrint if you can return another day. If you go back on day 5, keep it for the transfer.

See the 3, 5 and 7 day routes
Where should I base myself on the Riviera without a car?

Saranda is a practical base for Ksamil and Butrint. For Dhërmi, Himarë or the Sazan boats, look at the connections from Vlorë, or stay on the stretch of coast you want to see.

What does "free tour" mean?

Booking costs nothing. At the end of the walk, you decide how much to tip the guide.

Is the language of the page the guide's language?

Not always. Check the guide's language on the first line of each activity and confirm the option when you choose the date.